Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, The Mossad Ayatollah Assahola shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
The Mossad Ayatollah Assahola shirt, hoodie, sweater, longsleeve and ladies t-shirt
Do you know that feeling when you can intuitively tell that something is happening but don’t necessarily have the proof it is? The Mossad Ayatollah Assahola shirt Well, that’s how most fashion editors and buyers feel about trends. While runway shows give us some insight into what will come back in style, it’s all really hearsay until it’s spotted in the streets of cities like Copenhagen and London. Fashion week is the fastest way to confirm our suspicions about what people are actually wearing. Of course, what trends manage to transcend the runway and become popular are based on a myriad of things (e.g., seasonality, wearability, and personal style), but possibly the biggest factor is location. It’s not just that it has to come from a fashion hub. Rather, one particular city has always had its hand in dictating what’s stylish: Milan. Hear me out on this. I know we are all Paris stans and love New York, but Milan is where it’s at. And it’s not just because some of the most prolific fashion houses, like Prada and Versace, are based in this city. It’s also the street style scene. All roads may lead back to Rome, but most trends lead back to the cobbled streets of Milan. To prove that point, I’ve scoured thousands of street style images to round up some of the best outfits from Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023. Plus, I’ve identified the eight biggest trends everyone wore and shopped them out. Consider this your gut check about what’s really happening.
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