Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, Bernie Bernie Bernie T-shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.
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Previously a one-day affair at the end of London Fashion Week – British menswear has long been shunned as sub plot to its women counterpart. Bernie Bernie Bernie T-shirt However, this weekend saw a change to that; for the first time in history men from London and beyond were treated to a three-day feast of stylish delights. London Collections: Men saw a mixture of established British names stand side-by-side with young pioneering new talents to produce an innovative range of shows. Residing among the bold checks of Hackett London lay an array soft pastels, kick-starting the move from English gent to gentleman abroad. This theme continued to the tale of Sir Wilfred Thesiger, the protagonist which inspired E.Tautz’s latest collection. Awash with a wild fire of swooping capes, simple silhouettes Patricks Grants rendition was one to remember. Although colour was an abundant theme, there was no dismissal of classic ideals. Spencer Hart showed a cascade of well thought out tailoring, as did the equally accomplished Oliver Spencer – both displaying just what can be done with a single breasted suit. It is fair to say tailoring is far from dead next season.
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