Across the four fashion capitals—New York, {title} London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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I don’t drink coffee, but something tells me I’m going to develop a caffeine addiction this season. {title} Beige used to be a dirty word in fashion circles, but my, how times have changed. The main character in the quiet-luxury aesthetic, one might argue that the term itself is now dated, but its impact certainly isn’t. With plenty of neutral looks edging on the lighter, caramel side of the colour spectrum, we witnessed the shade being worn top-to-toe by models across all four cities, in every show from Michael Kors to Max Mara. “Every year, I find myself gravitating towards a particular colour which ends up playing the lead role in my wardrobe,” says Joy Ejaria, Who What Wear UK social media editor. “I’ve gone through many phases, and last year’s pink moment still occupies a fond place in my heart. But this year, I want to mute it down a little. We’ve had quite the obsession with dressing like our favourite foods—’vanilla girl’ and ‘tomato girl’ are just two examples. If you thought this trend was on its way out, then think again. This year, I and many others are taking things up a notch and turning our fashion heads to our favourite coffees. The lure of ‘latte dressing’ lies in how easy it is to create expensive-looking outfits, whatever your budget.”. “Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m fully expecting the backlash of stealth wealth and quiet luxury to begin shortly, but in terms of what people actually want to wear? They’re after items that feel realistic for their lives,” says Block. “That means black trousers that are cut just right, knitwear that looks good whether you’ve thrown it over a pair of joggers or a slip dress and a classic white shirt. Even major brands such as Versace—usually known for its mega-glam pieces— are leaning into ’90s minimalism, along with the likes of Bottega Veneta and Coach. Even though this trend has been around for a few seasons, it’s so easy to slot into any current wardrobe as it provides the timelessness that plenty of buyers are after. Similarly muted tones over at Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Maxamillian Davis’ Ferragamo were also pushing the more ‘wearable’ concept, with the latte-dressing trend continuing from last season and well into next.”



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