Red hosiery has long dominated among the trends Who What Wear editors love, FUCK Them Both But I Hate tRump More Shirt but it may be time to give another color a try. We later learned from art executive Zina Reed that this sculptural dress was from none other than Zara. (We could’ve sworn it would be archival Nina Ricci or something.) The pairing of equally bold grape-purple tights really elevates this to high-fashion territory, so we just had to document the entire ‘fit. A cloud of expertly constructed fabric, Cecilie Bahnsen dresses are so instantly recognizable that one can spot them a mile away. So it didn’t surprise us once Frieze co-curator Sonya Tamaddon revealed that her cobalt-blue frock was a creation from her “dear friend” Bahnsen. “I only wear ruffles when it’s Cecilie. She makes it feel like armor,” she says. To add more drama, the curator incorporated three more major runway trends—sheer tights, big earrings, and ballet flats. We caught this art educator at the tail end of Frieze day one just as the sun was beginning to set and the crowd trickled out of the fairgrounds. It was the earrings and headband that immediately stuck out, a reminder that good accessories will always spark conversation (and compliments). If relaxed is the keyword for the Californian dress code, then double denim is the Los Angeles equivalent of a suit. Adrianna Bach, a model based in New York City, wore a dark-wash Slvrlake denim set with Celine sunglasses and a Bottega Veneta Mini Jodie bag. “I’ve worn this set for seven days in a row,” she proclaims.
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The spring/summer 2024 showcase was set against an uncertain economic and political backdrop, FUCK Them Both But I Hate tRump More Shirt which may have led many designers to approach their collections with extra consideration. The customer has become more mindful too, further aware of their consumption and the downright privilege that it is to be a consumer right now. Yes, there will always be an appetite to shop, but there is a deliberate attempt to be less ostentatious about it (read: there will be far fewer logos this season). Of the trends, many carried on from previous seasons, not just the last. In addition to what Page observed above, from the palette to the prints down to finer details such as jewellery, big bags and ballet flats, it felt like we’d seen much of it all before, but this time with a renewed appeal. No big leaps were made—which is good in terms of our bank balances and wardrobes—and our editors were able to envision themselves wearing much of what they saw in their daily lives. Let’s hear it for the wide-leg trousers!. The more directional trends we did see were there to spark joy at a time when it felt like it might have been in short supply. There was a celebration of colour throughout, which could have quite easily taken over this entire trend report. Red continues to dominate, with Hermès’ designs acting as a stoic antithesis to the candy-pop looks that lined the Versace, Prada and Eudon Choi runways. There was shimmer but with a shakeup; silhouettes were stronger and the overall sweetness was distilled. Florals, for spring? They’ll never be groundbreaking, but with seismic petal proportions and blooms that jump off the toile they’re delicately attached to, there’s new life to be found in the trend that we assumed we’d seen everything from.
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