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Baartmans and Siegel showed their AW13 collection in full cinematic glory (In Covent Garden Odeon to be precise), House Of Evil Dead July 13 2024 Cultplex Manchester UK T-shirt having the models assemble on stage just in front of a screen. This allowed a full view of the collection, with complete looks set next to one another while a red dégradé was simultaneously projected. The collection, capturing the transition from boyhood to manhood, and exploring bleak winters – used military inspired coats and sharp silhouettes reacting to the instinct of self-protection. Reds and aubergine, perfectly assembled with light and dark greys and white, complemented each other. Refined classic cuts can be seen in their tailoring – exemplified in the lightweight wool jersey double-breasted suit jackets. Equally impressive are the technical accomplishments achieved in the feather down quilted bomber jacket in clear plastic and the white jacquard fully reversible silk puffers.

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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, House Of Evil Dead July 13 2024 Cultplex Manchester UK T-shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.