Red hosiery has long dominated among the trends Who What Wear editors love, Official Kamala Harris – Wind Of Change T-shirt but it may be time to give another color a try. We later learned from art executive Zina Reed that this sculptural dress was from none other than Zara. (We could’ve sworn it would be archival Nina Ricci or something.) The pairing of equally bold grape-purple tights really elevates this to high-fashion territory, so we just had to document the entire ‘fit. A cloud of expertly constructed fabric, Cecilie Bahnsen dresses are so instantly recognizable that one can spot them a mile away. So it didn’t surprise us once Frieze co-curator Sonya Tamaddon revealed that her cobalt-blue frock was a creation from her “dear friend” Bahnsen. “I only wear ruffles when it’s Cecilie. She makes it feel like armor,” she says. To add more drama, the curator incorporated three more major runway trends—sheer tights, big earrings, and ballet flats. We caught this art educator at the tail end of Frieze day one just as the sun was beginning to set and the crowd trickled out of the fairgrounds. It was the earrings and headband that immediately stuck out, a reminder that good accessories will always spark conversation (and compliments). If relaxed is the keyword for the Californian dress code, then double denim is the Los Angeles equivalent of a suit. Adrianna Bach, a model based in New York City, wore a dark-wash Slvrlake denim set with Celine sunglasses and a Bottega Veneta Mini Jodie bag. “I’ve worn this set for seven days in a row,” she proclaims.

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Milan witnessed a big change, too. Gucci’s new creative director Sabato De Sarno held positions at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino before taking on this role, Official Kamala Harris – Wind Of Change T-shirt which catapulted him and his first collection for the brand into the spotlight last September. Buyers, editors and celebrities descended upon the Italian city to take in the spectacle—ask any fashion devotee without a ticket and they would likely have told you they’d give away their Birkin to have a front-row seat at this show. There’s no denying that De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele kept Gucci on the fashion map with his geek-chic sensibilities; an aesthetic that would define a moment in fashion history. Still, moments pass, and we saw De Sarno usher Gucci into a new era, one that places more value on essentials over eccentricities—a notion we’re seeing across the rest of the industry. A business built upon the customer’s desire to be seen in shiny new things will always have its issues. However, the thing that felt “new” this season was that some things just didn’t change at all. Perhaps the most noteworthy takeaway was that trends don’t seem to hold the same power that they used to. I’m generalising, of course—things get meta real fast if you so much as take a peek into the no-trends-actually-being-a-trend rabbit hole—but it feels as if creating trends for the sake of it could be a thing of the past. “The spring/summer 2024 collections have shown a continued commitment to 1990s nostalgia and the extraordinary everyday, where everyday items are elevated to exceptional levels of design and style whilst remaining chic and comfortable,” observes Net-a-Porter’s market director Libby Page. And she’s right. The market has experienced a shift of tectonic proportions in recent years where a genuine focus on quality over quantity and investing in things that last has become a priority for previously frivolous shoppers. The latest collections reflected this.