Having analysed the spring/summer 2024 fashion trends for months now (literally), Turd Ferguson For The USA 2024 T-shirt I’m here to tell you about the ones that are genuinely wearable and will truly affect your wardrobe for the next six months (and beyond, if I have anything to do with it). There’s a lot to talk about for S/S 24, but this hasn’t always been the catwalk way. If all the world’s a stage, Fashion Month has long been the costume cupboard—a trove of froth and tulle, sparkle and glitter designed to catch the eye and hold it. A dressing-up box that, although delightful and entertaining to lose yourself in, doesn’t always hold up in reality. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing—we could all use some fabulous escapism from time to time—but, ultimately, when you venture out from the sanctity of your wardrobe, you need to be able to live in these creations. At least in the physical realm—we’ll get into the virtual later. For spring/summer 2024, I have to applaud designers for creating collections that, yes, hold beauty, but also have a place in the everyday. But first, let’s travel back to September and October of last year and reflect on how things unfolded. Across the four fashion capitals—New York, London, Milan and Paris—a total of 299 designers showcased their collections, 19 new to the Fashion Month circuit, compared to 247 for spring/summer 2023 (credit to the fashion data analysts at Tagwalk for doing these calculations). Growth is a good thing, especially in creative industries, but I found this hard to believe, personally. Off the top of my head, I can think of a handful of designers who couldn’t secure budget to show, or whose brands were lost to greater financial struggles (I still can’t move on from the Christopher Kane-shaped hole that permeated the London schedule). With growth always comes change, and perhaps one of the biggest this season came in the form of a renunciation. Alexander McQueen’s Creative Director Sarah Burton announced that the spring/summer 2024 collection would be her last after 26 years at the brand. Burton had respectfully taken the helm after the British institution’s iconic and groundbreaking founder Lee Alexander McQueen passed away in 2010, with her subsequent collections serving as a love letter to his influence and precociousness. Cate Blanchett attended, Naomi Campbell walked and a standing ovation rang out during the final, tender moments of Paris Fashion Week.
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Red hosiery has long dominated among the trends Who What Wear editors love, Turd Ferguson For The USA 2024 T-shirt but it may be time to give another color a try. We later learned from art executive Zina Reed that this sculptural dress was from none other than Zara. (We could’ve sworn it would be archival Nina Ricci or something.) The pairing of equally bold grape-purple tights really elevates this to high-fashion territory, so we just had to document the entire ‘fit. A cloud of expertly constructed fabric, Cecilie Bahnsen dresses are so instantly recognizable that one can spot them a mile away. So it didn’t surprise us once Frieze co-curator Sonya Tamaddon revealed that her cobalt-blue frock was a creation from her “dear friend” Bahnsen. “I only wear ruffles when it’s Cecilie. She makes it feel like armor,” she says. To add more drama, the curator incorporated three more major runway trends—sheer tights, big earrings, and ballet flats. We caught this art educator at the tail end of Frieze day one just as the sun was beginning to set and the crowd trickled out of the fairgrounds. It was the earrings and headband that immediately stuck out, a reminder that good accessories will always spark conversation (and compliments). If relaxed is the keyword for the Californian dress code, then double denim is the Los Angeles equivalent of a suit. Adrianna Bach, a model based in New York City, wore a dark-wash Slvrlake denim set with Celine sunglasses and a Bottega Veneta Mini Jodie bag. “I’ve worn this set for seven days in a row,” she proclaims.
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